Tools & Resources
Install LYSAGHT LONGLINE 305® cladding
This page contains basic instructions for the installation of LYSAGHT LONGLINE 305®. For more information see Install LYSAGHT® Steel Roofing & Walling
Please be aware that installation of steel roofs must be carried out by licensed tradespeople in some Australian states.
Fasteners
LYSAGHT LONGLINE 305® is concealed-fixed to timber or steel supports. This means that clips are screwed or nailed to the supports, and no fastening passes through the sheeting.
When LYSAGHT LONGLINE 305® is fixed vertically, a fastener is fixed through each sheet, under the flashing or capping at the top of the sheet to prevent the sheet sliding downward in the clips.
| LYSAGHT LONGLINE 305® Concealed Fastening | |
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| Fixing to steel up to 0.75 mm BMT |
Self drilling self tapping screws with wafer-head. 12-12x25 (M5.5-12x25) |
| Fixing to steel >0.75 to 3 mm BMT |
Self drilling self tapping screws with wafer-head. |
| Fixing to timber |
Self drilling screws with wafer head |
Preparation
Before starting, check that the supports on which your sheeting will rest are in the same plane; that the pitch and overhangs conform to the minimum specifications.
Orient sheets before lifting
Consider which end of the building is best to start from. So that side laps are protected, we recommend that you start laying sheets from the end of the building that will be in the lee of the worst anticipated or prevailing weather.
It is much easier and safer to turn sheets on the ground than up on the roof. Before lifting sheets on to the roof, check that they are the correct way up and the overlapping side is towards the edge of the roof from which installation will start.
Place bundles of sheets over or near firm supports, not at mid span of roof members.
Prepare clips
Cut all starting/finishing clips and discard the unwanted pieces.
Fix the first row of clips
With particular care, determine the location of the first sheet and mark the edge of the sheet on the purlins.
Fix the first clip on the purlin. Using a string line (or the first sheet as a straight edge) fix the other starting clips for the first sheet.
Place the First Sheet
Step 1.
Locate the first sheet over the fixed clips.Step 2.
Using a measurement from the gutter-end of the sheet to the fascia or purlin, position the sheet so that it overhangs the desired amount into the gutter. When setting the first sheet, remember that it is important you keep the gutter-end of all sheets at a constant distance from the edge of the gutter or fascia.
Step 3.
Bend the tab of all clips over the rib.
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Fix the next (and subsequent) clips and sheets
Step 1.
Using the rib closing tool, flatten the rib of the first (previous) sheet at each purlin where the top fixing clips will fit.
Step 2.
Place top fixing clips over each flattened rib and fix to the purlins. With a felt-tipped pen, make a small mark in the pan to enable you to locate the clips in the later locking operation with the button punch.
Step 3.
Place the next sheet over the edge of the preceding sheet. Accurately position the sheet so that it overhangs the desired amount into the gutter. It is important that you keep the gutter-end of all sheets at a constant distance from the edge of the gutter or fascia.
Step 4.
Fully engage the sheet with the clips, using foot pressure on the ribs over each clip. You can do this by walking along the full length of the sheet with one foot in the tray next to the overlapping rib and the other foot applying pressure to the top of the interlocking ribs at regular intervals.
For walling applications use a rubber mallet instead of the weight on your feet.
Check Alignment Periodically
Check that the sheets are still parallel with the first sheet.
Place the last sheet
Assess how the last sheet will fit in relation to the fascia. Fix a cut starting/finishing clip to the purlins. Place the last sheet over the starting/finishing clips, and bend the tab of all clips over the rib.
Lock all Ribs
All lapped ribs must be locked along their length, by button-punching at no greater than 900mm centres.
You must button-punch through the hole in each top fixing clip you locate the clip with the pen mark made previously. When operating the punching tool, stand on the pan of the overlapping sheet to ensure that the sheets are fully engaged.
Ends of Sheets
Wind can drive water uphill under the flashings or cappings. Also, at the low end of a roof, wind or capillary action can cause water to run back up the underside of sheeting. To minimise these problems, turn the pans up at the top of sheets, and turn them down at the bottom. A tool is available for these jobs.
Turning-Up
Flush turn-ups are usually used on LYSAGHT LONGLINE 305. Cut off a portion of the female rib for at least 50 mm. For a flush turn-up, you also need to cut the crown of the centre rib for at least 50 mm. Holding the end of the tool against the end of the sheet, pull the handle up 90°. If turning-up flush, fold the protruding ears flush against the turn-up tool with a rubber mallet.
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| Cut off a portion of the female rib. | Pull the tool handle up 90°. | Fold "ears" against tool for a flush turn-up. | Form a turn-down about 20°. |
Turning-Down
All roofing on slopes below 1 in 5 (10°) must be turned-down (also called lipped). Turning-down is usually done after the sheeting is fixed on the roof, provided there is no obstruction to the operation of the turn-down tool.
- Push the turn-down tool over the end of the tray, as far as it will go.
- Hold the tool hard against the end of the tray and push the handle to form a turn-down about 20 degrees.
End-Lapping
Underlapping ribs have to be slightly squashed at the lap to allow them to nest - an end-lap tool is available for the job.
Cutting
For cutting thin metal on site, we recommend a circular saw with a metal-cutting blade because it produces fewer damaging hot metal particles and leaves less resultant burr than a carborundum disc.
Cut materials over the ground and not over other materials.
Sweep all metallic swarf and other debris from roof areas and gutters at the end of each day and at the completion of the installation. Failure to do so can lead to surface staining when the metal particles rust.
Metal & Timber Compatibility
Lead, copper, free carbon, bare steel and green or some chemically-treated timber are not compatible with this product. Don't allow any contact of the product with those materials, nor discharge of rainwater from them onto the product. Supporting members should be coated to avoid problems with underside condensation. If there are doubts about the compatibility of other products being used, contact us.
Sealed Joints
For sealed joints use screws or rivets and neutral-cure silicone sealant branded as suitable for use with galvanised or ZINCALUME® steel
Maintenance
Optimum product life will be achieved if all external walls are washed regularly. Areas not cleaned by natural rainfall (such as the tops of walls sheltered by eaves) should be washed down every six months.
Safety, Storage and Handling
Handling Safety - LYSAGHT® product may be sharp and heavy.
It is recommended that heavy-duty cut resistant gloves and appropriate manual handling techniques or a lifting plan be used when handling material.
Keep the product dry and clear of the ground. If stacked or bundled product becomes wet for extended periods, separate it, wipe it with a clean cloth to dry thoroughly.
Handle materials carefully to avoid damage: don't drag materials over rough surfaces or each other; don't drag tools over material; protect from swarf.
Adverse Conditions
If this product is to be used in marine, severe industrial or unusually corrosive environments, Contact Us.
